Install the 4 multi pin male headers along the sides,
initially ONLY solder the end pins one each header.
ONLY solder the rest of the pins after you
have checked that it fits the KeyMaker 7 USB board and you are certain
there are no positioning errors.
Once you have the end pins on each header
soldered, check that you can plug the LCD board onto the KM7 USB board
Also
check that the 6 pin female header mates correctly with the 6 pin male
header on your KeyMaker 7 USB board.
Having
confirmed that all the 4 headers are correctly positioned, go ahead and
solder all the other pins on each of the 4 headers you just installed.
Preferably
using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers, you hold the long pins of the 6 pin
male header.
With the other pliers
you carefully one at a time, bend the short end of each pin at 90 degrees.
Be careful
that while bending the pin you do not to it through the plastic spacer and make
the long end shorter.
DO
NOT - simply solder the 6 pin header onto the board then bend the
pins after they are soldered
-
BAD IDEA - as that will place a lot of strain on the board holes, pads
and traces, possibly rendering the board unreliable.
Carefully
position the formed 6 pin male header onto the board as shown below, by
the two yellow arrows on the right.
PAY
ATTENTION to the exact position, not out to one side by even a single
hole!, don't solder it yet.
The short ends
go into the holes on the board.
If
the pins will not go into the holes on the board, check that they are
evenly bent at 90 degrees and evenly spaced apart at the short ends.
Once
you can get the pins into the holes slowly evenly work them all in fully
into the holes until the black plastic spacer is flush with the board.
The other yellow arrows, point to the
headers you installed in the previous steps, a good time to check them
once more against the photo below.
Turn
the board over and make sure the 6 pins are all inside that white border
labelled VCC, GND, SCL, SDA, 3,2. ONLY solder all the 6 pins from
this side [no need to solder on the other side of the board] when you are
certain you have it positioned exactly as per these photos above and
below.
Find the 16 pin male header and a strip of black
plastic spacer snap strip.
From one end of the black plastic trip snap
off 2 blocks and another 2 blocks, leaving you with 3 x 2 blocks.
Place one 2 block over the first 2 long pins
on the 16 pin header.
DO NOT PUSH until you have the short end of
the 2 pins up against something solid ELSE the pins will slide straight
through the plastic spacer which holds the 16 pins together and then you will
have lots of fiddling to do, best avoided.
Do the same for the 2 long pins on the
other side of the 16 pin male header.
The image below shows the 6 block black
plastic between my two lower fingers.
Above that I am holding the 16 pin male
header.
The left slide already has the spacer slid
into position.
The right side the spacer is not quite
home.
The
image below shows how this will be used on the board.
The
LCD module will sit on top of those 16 pins, which raise it slightly above
the board.
the reason for doing that
is that there are metal tabs on the back of the LCD module and we do NOT
want those making electrical contact with the traces on the board.
Just
in front sitting on top of the board are two single pins which have also
had one single spacer [snapped of the remaining 2 block].
They
will be used later to support the other edge of the LCD module.
These
3 images, one above and 2 below, will assist you in placing the 16 pin
male header correctly on the board
Once
you are certain your position of the 16 pin male header exactly match the
3 images above, solder the 16 pins from underneath the board.
Notice
above, 2 resistors and 2 LEDs have been installed.
Both
LEDs have a FLAT SIDE along their bottom circumference, that flat side
must face downward as per this image below
Go
ahead and place the 2 resistors and two LEDs to match the image
below.
The two bottom arrows
point to the flat side of each LED base.
When
you push the resistor and LED leads through the holes, on the other side
of the board pull the ends of each lead pair apart from one another, that
will hold the resistor or LED in place while you solder the leads from the
other side.
Cut off the excess lead
above each solder joint, DO NOT cut through the solder joint - cut
slightly above it.
After you have
completed soldering the 16 pin header, resistors and LEDs, the back of the
board should look like this
Installing the Joystick.
Take
note of the orientation mark the yellow arrow is pointing at in the photo
below, you must place the joystick correctly so the orientation mark
matches the photos or else your joystick will not function.
The
board has 0.1" spacing, a couple of pins on the joystick are
not 0.1" spacing, in order to be able to insert the pins onto the board
you need to bend them as per the photos above and below.
Once
you have shaped the 2 joystick pins, test that they will fit in the holes
and make adjustments if they don't fit.
You
are NOT aiming to push the pins all the way into the holes, the joystick
body will end up slightly raised from the board as per the photo
Pay
attention to the Orientation mark, see the yellow arrow and the small dot
on the joystick, that small dot is the orientation mark.
Before
soldering the joystick
Pay
attention to the Orientation mark, see the yellow arrow and the small dot
on the joystick
Arrows
point to joystick pins soldered in place underneath the board
The potentiometer is used to adjust the
LCD Contrast and Viewing Angle
We
need to shape the middle pin to fit the holes on the board
We
don't need the 2 large metal tabs, bend them down over each other
Test
and make adjustments to the middle pin until all 3 pins fit into the 3
holes as per the photo below
We
need to cut the shaft of the potentiometer just before the end of the flat
section
Then
make sure you have the 3 pins in the correct holes matching the image
below and solder the 3 pins from this side.
Around
the back of the potentiometer solder the 2 metal tabs to the pads they
rest on, as per the photo below.
DO
NOT use too much solder as it may form a long drop on the other side side
and contact the Joystick pins, when you have soldered the 2 tabs, turn the
board over and check that there is no solder connecting the tabs to the
Joystick pins.
Did you solder the 6 pin
female ISP header already? that was step one in this assembly guide.
If
you have not already done so:
solder the 6 pin female ISP header- DO IT NOW because
once the LCD covers it you will not be able to reach it with your
soldering iron.
In the photo below you can see the ISP connector solder
points are under the LCD board, once the LCD is soldered on top, you no
longer have access to those points for any soldering.
Place the LCD over the 16 pin
male header we soldered onto the board earlier.
The 2
single pin spacers we prepared earlier, you use one each on the 2
holes at the front, see the yellow arrows at the bottom of the photo below
photo
of the single pin support spacer on the left side
photo
of the single pin support spacer on the right side
Once you have the single support pins in
place, solder them the edge of the LCD holes as per the photo below.
Also
solder the other end of each one of those 2 pins underneath the board.
DO
NOT overheat the single pin as you are soldering it or the plastic
spacer may melt specially if you are applying to much pressure to hold
the LCD in place while soldering the pins.
Now
solder the 16 pins on the LCD header.
All the components have been assembled
onto the board.
QUICK Soldering lesson
You will now use the supplied red
enamel coated thin wire to make all the connections underneath the board.
You
do need a decent fine tip soldering iron to solder the wires
The
red enamel coated wire supplied, will be used to make the connections on
the board.
You decide which wire you
are going to solder and you cut a piece of red wire to fit.
You
clean the tip of your soldering iron, of course your soldering should be
switched on and at working temperature.
Apply
sufficient solder to the soldering iron tip to form a small blob
Place
one end of the red wire inside that blob for about TWO OR THREE SECONDS,
that will melt the red insulation
Move
the red wire out of the solder and inspect the end of the wire, the red
insulation should be melted away revealing a clean silvery coloured tinned
copper wire end
below
is a close-up view of the wire
If
the wire isn't nicely tinned, DO IT AGAIN until it is
Sometimes,
you will get a lot of melted enamel on the end of the wire and it will
look dirty, don't persevere with it, cut that small section off the end
and try again.
For each wire end
clean the soldering iron tip by wiping it against a wet sponge designed
for use with a soldering iron.
Use
a FRESH BLOB OF SOLDER, as the blob will quickly fill up with burnt
enamel, only use one blob for one wire end.
Having
tinned both ends of a piece of wire, place the wire over the solder point
on the board [which should already have solder in it]
Use
the soldering iron tip to melt the solder in the hole and join it to the
red wire end, move the soldering iron tip away.
Hold
the wire in place for about 3 seconds until the solder joint cools.
Put
a small amount of solder in each of the holes, as per the image below,
under the 2 headers at the top of the photo, and also, 2 holes under
the bottom left header, see photo below. Those are the points to which
red enamel wires
will next be soldered to.
The photos below are a Pictorial representation
of the wiring to be connected all using the fine red wire supplied with the
LCD Parts Kit.
Connect the wires show on the photos below.
The
connection points are marked with a light blue circle, if you see a hole
and there is no blue circle then there is no connection to that hole or
pin.
Connect the wires one at a time,
carefully checking you have the right hole or pin, double check after
soldering each wire.
Below
is the
photo is of the REAL wiring of the finished board.
All nicely assembled, it is now time to test it.
Turn
the potentiometer shaft fully Anti-Clockwise as viewed from underneath
the board so that when you first turn it on, you are certain to see the
solid white blacks on the LCD, else depending on the position of the
potentiometer shaft you may see nothing except the Blue Background and
suspect there is a fault when none exists.
Connect the LCD board to your KM7, making
sure the 6 pin ISP female connector mates correctly with the 6 pin header
on your KM7.
Plug in your Mini USB
cable into KM&, of course the other end of the cable DOES have to be plugged
into a laptop or PC that is switched on, else the is no power supplied to
the KM& or LCD board.
Switch on
your KM7, you should see a blue backlit LCD, if you turned the potentiometer
you will see white squares as in the photo below.
If
you ignored the earlier potentiometer instruction you may see no white
blocks at all, turn the shaft on the potentiometer throughout its entire
arc, at some point you should see the characters appear on the LCD..
Now
turn the potentiometer slowly clockwise and the characters will appear out
of the bright white.
Keep
turning the potentiometer slowly back and forth until it looks the best to you
You
can also perform a simple test to ensure all 4 directions are detected,
also push the joystick handle in toward the board for the 5th switch
inside the joystick.
What
happens when you move the joystick to initially test it will depend on
wether you have already Activated the KeyMaker 7 USB your LCD board is
plugged into.
If
your KM7 has not been Activated, then as you move the joystick in the
4 possible directions or press on the shaft - the LCD display will blink
briefly-, if it does that for all switch positions, your joystick is wired
correctly.
If
your KM7 has been activated then of course the joystick will initiate
commands, but since you do not have any EEPROM connected, you cannot harm
anything.
Again
each time the joystick is moved to one of the 4 extremes of travel, the
LCD will either blink or display a different message.
.
Disclaimer
I make no warranty that any of my
information is correct, or safe, or does or does not breach any warranty
clause, or anything else, it is up to you to decide if you will
follow all or any of the instructions to recover the Supervisor Password
from a TP. It is up to you to decide, I am not responsible for the
results or for any consequential or incidental damages whatsoever.
